Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
